How to Read a Skincare Ingredient List: A Plain-English UK Guide

What a UK label has to show

GOV.UK guidance says cosmetic products in Great Britain must have a Responsible Person with a UK address, who makes sure safety measures are followed. Labels must be easy to read, and show an identification number such as a batch number and the ingredients. The ingredients can be on the packaging alone, and if space is tight they may be on a leaflet or in an insert. Nanomaterial ingredients must be followed by “(nano)”.

The same guidance says labelling and advertising must not imply that a cosmetic has characteristics or functions it does not have. So if a product makes a claim that sounds like medicine, be sceptical.

How to read the list

Start at the top

The first few ingredients usually make up most of the product. If a serum advertises one star ingredient, see where it appears. An ingredient near the bottom may be present in only a small amount, although some active ingredients work at low levels, so position alone is not the whole story.

Expect Latin and chemical names

Water usually appears as Aqua. Plant extracts often use Latin names. Hard-looking names are not automatically a concern: tocopherol, for example, is a form of vitamin E. A name that sounds chemical says nothing about whether it is safe, and all ingredients are chemicals.

Look for fragrance

Fragrance often appears as Parfum, and some scent ingredients are named separately towards the end. If you know a particular ingredient bothers your skin, this is where to look.

Marketing words to treat with care

• “Natural” or “clean”. These do not tell you a product is gentler or safer.
• “Clinically tested”. Ask how, on how many people, and whether the full product or one ingredient was tested.
• “Dermatologist tested”. This does not mean a product suits your skin.
• “Up to 80% improvement”. Ask what was measured, and whether it was a measurement or a survey of opinions.

Before you buy, it can help to compare claims with our guide to spotting fake reviews.

If you have sensitive skin

The NHS explains that contact dermatitis can be caused by irritants or allergens, and that a reaction usually happens within a few hours or days of contact. Introduce one new product at a time, so you know what caused any problem. If your skin reacts, stop using the product. Speak to a pharmacist if it is troubling you, and see a GP if symptoms are persistent, recurrent or severe.

A worked example: reading a serum label

Imagine a “hyaluronic and peptide serum”. The list begins Aqua, Glycerin, Propanediol, then Sodium Hyaluronate, and further down a peptide, followed by preservatives and Parfum. Here is one way to read that. Water and humectants, which attract moisture, make up most of the bottle. Sodium hyaluronate is the common form of hyaluronic acid. The peptide sits lower, which is normal for an ingredient used in small amounts, although the label does not tell you how much is there. Parfum means it is scented, which matters if fragrance bothers your skin.

None of that tells you whether the serum will work for you. It tells you what is in it, which lets you compare it with a cheaper product. Two serums with nearly the same first five ingredients may differ mainly in branding and packaging.

How to compare two products

• Compare the first five to seven ingredients side by side.
• Work out the price per 10ml, because bottle sizes vary.
• Check whether the star ingredient is named, or hidden within a “complex” or brand name.
• Look at what is left out if you avoid fragrance or another ingredient.
• Check the opened-life symbol on the pack, so you know how long to use it for.

When an ingredient list cannot help

A label cannot tell you how a product will feel, how stable it is or whether a claim is backed by good evidence. It also does not replace medical advice. If you have a skin condition, are pregnant, or are using prescribed skin treatment, ask a pharmacist or GP before adding something new. Read any before-and-after photos with care, and use our fake review guide when a product relies on testimonials.

FAQ

Are ingredients listed by strength?

As a rule they appear from highest to lowest amount, with very small amounts at the end. Position is a guide, not a measure of how well something works.

Does natural mean safer?

No. Natural ingredients can still irritate skin or cause allergic reactions.

Where can I find the ingredients if they are not on the bottle?

GOV.UK says ingredients can be on the packaging alone, so check the box or leaflet.

What should I do if a product stings?

Stop using it and rinse it off. Speak to a pharmacist if it is troubling you, and see a GP if symptoms are persistent or severe.